It's a scare tactic. Here's the two videos. Dealerships do this all the time. Despite shops being good or not, they hustle to get their money. Unless it's corroded or rusted out you most likely just need need bushings. Do I need to buy bushings seperate?
Any suggestions on certain brands that may be more durable than others? They arent like most shops i have seen. This is my last issue i have, i have been doing alot of maintenance lately, i had to replace my valve seals, my rear axle differential seals, all my brakes and my inner tie rod. 3rd gen 4runner lower control arms for a 2004 honda odyssey. The bushings wear out... I trust them they are a very good shop and usually reasonable with there prices, last time i went there they estimated 860 and called me while they were working on it and said they didnt need a part they thought they needed which cut the price in half, so i definately trust them. Thanks for any help yall can give, especially if you have done this before yourself! Or the ones i have might still be fine and I just need to replace the control arm. Control arms don't go bad unless they are damaged from an impact (very difficult even for an impact to damage them) or maybe very rusted.
Timmy the Toolman did a whole video on youtube for this, shows you the bottle jack/heat method to remove the old bushings. "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. Do I need to change the entire LCA or just the bushings? It came out to around 1350, that seems outrageous i think i can do it myself for like 400. Are we talking front or rear lower control arms here?? I have been wondering the same thing. You might not get any responses from the OP since the post is from 2013, but I have done my front control arm bushings using write ups from here, pretty easy actually. 3rd gen 4runner lower control arms for lift. 25in wheel spacers, front sway bar links, ES sway bushings Other stuff: 1/2" body lift, B&M tranny cooler, extended rear diff breather, deckplate, blue-wire mod, ARB Tacoma BullBar, Smittybuilt XRC8 winch, 285/75/16's.
I have a slight steering wheel vibration/shimmy around 70mph. Yes you will need an alignment. 25in wheel spacers, sway end links from 2nd gen rear Rear: Toytec Superflex, 05'+ Tacoma Bilstein 5100's, extended bump stops, extended brake line, e-brake strain relief bracket, 1. And after my inner tie rod i got an allignment not knowing i had this lower control arm problem as well, and I think I need to get in alligned again after i do these!!! If they think it's bent or damaged ask for them to show you the proof they found to make that call. People go in for an oil change, and end up spending $300 on some new random parts the techs claimed were bad. You would only need to replace the arms if they've received some type of impact damage or they have been compromised by rust. I'm guessing front since you mentioned front suspension parts in your original post. Put your new bushings in the freezer for a few days before install. I also don't see how it's a 7 hour job either. I have the same alignment problem, and will be replacing all ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, and lower control arms in one swoop. 3rd gen 4runner lower control arms for tacoma. And I have on the subject.
Also I see control arm kits and then control arms. Top plate spacer, Light Racing/SPC UCA's, 1. There are some good writeups out there. Don't have my links handy, but they should be pretty easy to find by searching for lower control arm or something like that. There should only be 4 things to remove IIRC: 1) lower shock bolt, 2) front cam bolt, 3) rear cam bolt, and 4) lower ball joint. I got started down this road by looking at replacing tie rod ends. Will be doing this in the near future as well. I would buy new OEM bushings, take out the arms myself, and probably take them to a shop to have them install, labor charge should be less than an hour that way. So you likely need new bushings, not new arms. Tires are balanced with new brakes and rotors.
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