Here's a pic of the NAPA trans line (I bought their last 3 feet, so they gave me the box): That hose was rated for 400PSI! Now you can remove the check valve side of the hose. Parts needed: 2 - 3/8" nozzle to pipe fitting (yes you need 2 of these! ) 4l80e Transmission Parts Diagram. Transmission: 4-Speed Automatic Transmission, 5-Speed Manual Transmission. Just stuff the replacement check valve fitting unit in one end of the hose, clamp it down with a hose clamp and hold it up to the old check valve line before you cut. Transmission cooler hose lines. The brass fitting might have corroded a bit so a shot of penetrating oil will help break it loose. Just use the old check valve unit to judge length before you cut. Recheck all of the connections. You can now remove the drip pan. 1 - 3/8" to 3/8" male-to-male coupler (will research P/N). Total price: ~$35 for parts. Enjoy your new found peace of mind. 48re Transmission Coolers.
It's tiny and once you see it, you'll understand why it's a restriction to the system and how debris can accumulate there, especially is the tranny doesn't see a regular servicing. This will allow the trans fluid pump to refill the Torque Converter so you don't bog and stall as you try to take off. 46re transmission cooler line diagram. The reason that you can't use just the nozzle piece is because the coupler in the truck on the check valve side is a flare thread which is different from pipe thread. 48re Transmission Cooler Line Diagram. The 7/8" wrench should fit on the check valve and the 3/4" should go on the silver connector on the the trans return line. 1 - 3/8" pipe thread to flare thread converter (will research P/N). Here's the replacement hose completely assembled: 1 ft of trans tubing will probably be a little too long for the setup so you can use wire cutters to cut the trans tubing to size.
2 - hose clamps (NAPA part #5051212). 1 ft of 3/8" ID trans cooler line (NAPA part #H1937). What size are transmission cooler lines. Remember to measure twice and cut once! Well, here's a little write up to remove the tranny check valve in the return line to increase flow to the trans and hopefully remove a common failure point in the Dodge 46re transmission. 1 - 3/8" to 1/4" reducer coupling (NAPA part #3300X6X4). Make sure it is 3/8" ID trans cooler line hose and nothing else!
Throw another hose clamp on the hose before inserting the radiator side coupling. Insert radiator side coupling and tighten down the hose clamp over the fitting's nozzle end. Parts like Transmission Oil Cooler & Lines are shipped directly from authorized Mopar dealers and backed by the manufacturer's warranty.
The replacement is a return line with no check valve that replaces the current line without hacking up any of the truck's trans lines or fittings. The new fittings will make the whole unit a little longer than the old one, so don't judge rubber tubing to rubber tubing when you cut. Tighten up the flare end onto the coupler in the truck and push the quick connect side onto the radiator. The black band around the tool is actually a rubber band and assists you in closing and holding the tool around the pipe you are using it on. Deleting the Transmission Check Valve.
The flow for the check valve portion we've removed is from radiator to transmission (the return line). The nozzle will slide right into the hose and the band clamp will fit perfectly over the flat portion of the nozzle. The large coupler was 7/8" on the outside, but the nozzle and flare pieces were 17mm (IIRC), so I just used a crescent wrench as I didn't have a larger metric wrench. After you remove the check valve line, turn it quick connect side down and let the trans fluid drip out. 1 or 2 quarts ATF +4 trans fluid. The tip on the nozzle serves as a catch so that the band clamp (when tightened down) can't slide backward. Search for: Main Menu. You'll notice the flow direction is marked on the old check valve itself.
A flat head screwdriver. Next we need to construct a new replacement hose with fittings. When this happens, the fluid flow can eventually stop and with no way to cool the internals of the transmission, it will overheat and die. So why on earth would you want to remove this? I just bought this one and used a reducer they had in stock. Here's a pic of the check valve side brass fittings (you can see these assembled in the quick disconnect tool pic posted earlier. When you remove the check valve tube trans fluid will drip from the trans line, so position your drip pan under there as well. Let the truck heat up to operating temp and check the trans fluid level on a level road or parking lot. A quick disconnect tool can be used to remove the connection to the radiator, pictured here (the tool is in the middle of the pic): I prefer the metal disconnect tools to the plastic ones as the short plastic circular tools don't really get far enough into the quick connect fitting to release the spring loaded latches. The coupler in the pic is just a simple 3/8" male-to-male coupler. Add more ATF +4 as needed. I suggest you leave it on the tool and just shove the disconnect tool straight down onto the radiator pipe.
A failure of this type usually results in a rebuild to the tune of at least $1200 or more. RTV should not be needed if you get the fittings tight, but won't hurt if you want to use it, just use sparingly on the threads and make sure it is highly oil resistant and can take at least 250 degress. Notice it says DODGE/JEEP at the top: The parts guy said he could order a quick connect with a female end that might attached directly to the 3/8" nozzle without the reducer, but I wasn't going to wait a day for a "maybe fits" part. Here's a pic of it installed: Engage the emergency brake and start up the truck and put it in Neutral. The first pic is of the check valve as it sits in the stock truck in the transmission return line from the radiator. The next pic is the connection on the radiator side: It is typically held on with a quick connect fitting and you will need to first pop off the safety connection with a flat head screw driver. Crescent wrench for various metric fittings somewhere between 17mm and 21mm. Offers the wholesale prices for genuine 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Regular Cab parts. Well, if you have debris in your trans fluid from normal wear and tear, a common place for it to collect is in the check valve. NAPA part #05706B106). Trans line hose is reinforced and rated for +150PSI, any less and the hose will eventually swell and split, (probably while you're driving) and then you'll lose fluid and overheat. You can then take a peek in the check valve side to see the check valve inside the fitting.
This setup is also nice if you ever want to add an external cooler or filter to the trans return line. Guides & Information. You simply slide the disconnect tool over the trans cooler line on the radiator side with the flanges pointing toward the check valve and press the tool into the fitting and then pull the fitting and hose away from the radiator. It's a good idea to let the truck idle in neutral for about 10 seconds before taking off after the truck has sit for an extended length of time. Compliments of aim4squirrels @. Make sure you place a catch pan under the fitting before you disconnect it as trans fluid will start to drip from the radiator. Harbor Freight has them here. 3/4" open end wrench. Tools needed: 7/8" open end wrench. You must be logged in to rate content! Parts fit for the following vehicle options.
Sorry for the few out of focus pictures, my camera doesn't like to focus without a flash which was necessary for some pics. The purpose of this check valve is to keep the Torque Converter filled with transmission fluid when the truck is off so the next time you start it, you can take off without waiting for the pump to fill the converter back up. Just remove the hose from the fittings via the hose clamps and place the cooler or filter unit in between the two couplings and pipe the hoses into your current couplings.
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