Some people have reported difficulty here, but mine went on with only a little struggle. So now I'm faced with swapping pulleys and I cannot figure out how to remove them. Note: When working with the drive belt, make sure your hands are clean. Is there any other magical way of removing that nut? Is that the only way to get it off??? The one from John Connolly () is better, but still rubs slightly. Sometime thread locking. Could heat it up, I'll need to get a torch then. How to remove pulley from alternator term df. I had the luxury of having a spare alternator on my bench to measure. This will help you avoid shock or injury while working on your car. You missed the part where I said about removing the alternator.... It engages the splines of the pulley, allowing you to counterhold the pulley while you back the threads off of the shaft using a (depending on application) Torx or XZN bit through the hollow center. The center bolt will also slide, allowing you to center the pad on the end of the crank. Securing the new pulley can be more difficult, because using an air gun in that application makes it difficult to judge whether sufficient tightening force has been applied.
It also can be necessary to remove an alternator pulley if the old one has been damaged. Mine has the hex hole in the end so i am a bit confused what tyoe mine is... can't see any way a ring spanner would fit on the nut as it is recessed... I don't think that I'll have much trouble removing the v-belt pulley but I'm not sure how to install the replacement serpentine pulley. Here's a cross-post that might help you out....... 95 M3 Evosport Pulley Install Instructions. To remove a pressed-on pulley, a puller set is required. I wonder if I can change out the alternator nut this way, with the aux belt still on. If not, then changing the pulley is vital when using our Coyote swap bracket kit or our alternator relocation kit. Just because the belt tension is correct does NOT mean the belt is correctly adjusted. How to change a alternator pulley. Looks like it is 24mm nut if anyone else looking to do this in the future. With a screwdriver, pry off the protective plastic cap off the pulley and you can then insert the tools: Now, you need 2 wrenches. Not an option for me. Couldn't get my open spanners to fit in the 'dish' and not got a cranked ring spanner that big and looks like it will cost about £20 to buy one so i might just take to a garage and see if they can tighten it for me. Step 5 - Install New Alternator Pulley. I can get a torx bit into the end of the shaft, but then I can't get a wrench on the 24mm nut.
For a 17mm shaft smaller units have a 15mm shaft and some pulleys may require adapter bushing. Note: Remember to rotate the engine between each fitting of shims, to make sure the belt is fully seated before you check it's tightness. 26) Go off and enjoy your new 8 ft-lb and 10 hp. You can make a larger belt "work", but this slows the fan down and the engine will run hotter.
Or get a $3 socket from Sears and grind two flat sides on to it. Tighten them with a socket wrench or torque wrench. Timja said: It depends on if the pulley has a keyway or is a keyway? If you just need to change the pulley, it can be done with the alternator still in the car, but some special tools are required. This is the most common mistake when adjusting the belt, so make sure you are patient and do it the right way to prevent walking at 3am on a rainy night. How to remove clutch pulley from alternator. I have a Bosch alternator unit. SO lets say at least a half hour. The bolt hole broke so I have the replacements for it and can't get it off. The only result was a smashed hand when it slipped and some not so nice words being exchanged with my 13, 000lb advisary. Step 2 - Loosen and Remove the Alternator Belt. Since you are holding the shaft & loosening the pulley, you need to turn the 17mm wrench as though you were loosening any bolt or unter clockwise. It takes less than a minute to pop off the old pulley and install the new one. But I was changing the tensioner as it was bad, so I thought I would change the pulley at the same time as a preventative measure as I have seen MANY of these things fail and I would rather do it in a controled situation in my driveay than on the side of a busy highway in the middle of a snow storm.
21) Torque water and power steering pulley bolts. The nut is threaded normally, only the fan nut is reverse threaded. A torx socket, 3/8inch Ratchet and a 24mm (or 15/16") spanner. Install the bell shaped spacer and tighten the nut. I have a hard time holding the belt up so the rear pulley half goes on straight, and keep bunging up spacers! Always put any extra shims between the outer pulley half and the bell-shaped spacer for safe keeping for when you need to replace the belt in the future.
Dave wrote - John Connolly () wrote me last night to make sure I was putting both pulley halves on the alternator shaft when checking for interference -- for some reason it makes a difference. If you are lucky, or maybe have a high-torque inch drive air ratchet, you may be able to leave it in the car and save a bunch or work. Detailed Description. Direction for removal as looking at the front of the alternator. 24) Reverse all the miscellaneous steps detailed above. I was able to get it back together, but you may want to be on the lookout for this happening to you. The damaged Pulley caused the belt to be destroyed really fast. Image Unavailable, Please Login.
15) Peel back rubber boot on wire housing. I heard you can use a strap wrench, the ones with the rubber hold down the pulley and undo the nut... Use an Impact gun!!!!!!!!!! The new chrome one protrudes forward the least and clears the alternator completely. And that depth is critical -- if its too deep, it will rub on the alternator. The alternator pulley removal process in this case typically involves placing the specialized puller on the alternator and then turning it until the pulley comes off. It depends on the keyway question. The one in the pic I believe was from a Lisle set I bought many years ago. I torqued mine by hand as best I could and followed up with a medium shot from the impact gun. You may also use thread locking liquid for better hold. Crank engine and observe battery voltage. It is important to get the length right as there isn't much clearance in the engine compartment between the pulley and the frame. One common method of securing an alternator pulley is with a nut and lock washer.
Oh, and don't grind away too much as you will need some of the hex part to hold it with a wrench: I probably should take some measurements so you can grind the appropriate amount away. I can get a socket on the nut, but cannot stop the shaft from spinning, even when installed with belt on. Here is how I removed the pulley. I couldn't get any of my spanners to fit mine as the nut is recessed inside the pulley, see photo below (with nut loosened), was yours the same as this? Nut is left-hand (spin clockwise when viewed from front to loosen). The tools needed are a 17mm Allen socket, 22mm socket, flat head screwdriver, and an impact gun. To remove the old alternator pulley, first remove the nut holding the pulley to the alternator shaft. Install all ten shims between the pulley halves as a starting point, and place the belt into position while installing the other half of the pulley. If it has a keyway you hold the pulley in a vice and undo the nut. Be careful with the wires. 13) Remove lower and upper alternator bolts with 16mm wrench. There are multiple sockets included to remove pulleys from either type of alternator.
The alternator is a standard lefty-loosy/righty-tighty thread, right? The exact process for alternator pulley removal can vary from one car to another, so it is important to examine each particular vehicle before beginning. 12) To gain access to the alternator I needed to remove my JC Euro intake set-up. Removing the second half of the pulley with the woodruff key slot facing up, will help keep the woodruff key in place. Mark the belt for orientation so you can reinstall in the same direction. Tried everything, every wrench, and I stand on the wrench and jump on it, but it just no movement at all. 1) You better start by disconnecting that battery, because you are (most likely) going to need to remove the alternator (and the positive lead is hot and we don t want to practice our welding skills). Needed to remove the pulley, do not overheat. Step 3: Removing the Pulley. Usual cautions apply. This ensures that the pulley halves are tight against one another, though they may have shims between them (this is ok). Tightening the nut will pull the new pulley onto the end of the alternator shaft.
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