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The engine backfire on deceleration is also caused by the too lean air/fuel ratio - A lot of people think that the backfire/popping in the exhaust is caused by too rich mixture, but it's actually the other way round. What causes exhaust "popping" during deceleration? I no longer notice any kind of pinging, and I now even have some carbon deposits on my plugs! The nature of the beast. I think it is closed loop at the time, but my WB is showing 18 sometimes. An engine running slightly rich will give more power, but running lean will cause catastrophic engine damage. Hello, What is the best way to introduce popping on decel on a 6. You may have to experiment with different jet sizes, but generally one size up will correct the air-fuel mix if you've removed the baffles from your stock exhaust. Location: Appling GA. Posts: 3, 349. Think of the exhaust gasses flowing out of the tailpipe in a series of pulses, kind of like waves/troughs in the sea. Does running rich damage engine? There is too little fuel in relation to oxygen.
The reason you do not hear this on a bike with a stock exhaust is due to the baffling of the stock exhaust. Can it cause any issues with the power curve? I thought hmmm man that will effect timing too, probably retarding it alot and right as the mixture was going out of the exhaust valve. It was a very brief spike and I noticed the timing had dropped in the log compared to where it was also. As you probably know, the BoosterPlug is only active in open loop mode, but sits idle in closed loop (If not check out the "how it works" for a full explanation on open loop and closed loop operation). The jet sizing is stock, and stock settings are 2 1/2 screw turns out. Dont know if it was jetted bought it used. There's a lot of discussion about popping on deceleration and I have this problem myself. The temperature of the combustion chamber is hotter than normal and the exhaust pipe (especially the headers) are hotter than normal as well. I replaced the main jet with a #152 and it runs great now, the only issue I have is that when I accelerate over about 90kms and then slow down I get a loud backfire. Diagnosing and fixing exhaust leaks is beyond the scope of this article, but you can check out our complete guide on diagnosing and fixing exhaust header leaks. Black/Sooty/Wet spark plugs – tell tale sign of a rich condition, soot is soft and can be removed.
Popping on deceleration. Wires), failing ignition coil(s) and especially switches or connectors. Certainly made worse by an overly lean idle circuit. Thanks in advance for any input.
Seven Signs Your Air and Fuel Mixture Is Too Rich. From what I read so far, this seems to indicate a lean condition, is this correct? If, for some reason, the ignition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... 5 inch glasspack and 6 ft of flex pipe to the rear and i get the poping as well.
He's been riding them since he was just a wee lad, and he loves restoring old Japanese street bikes and ATVs in his spare time. 89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA. This will create excess heat and may cause damage to your valves and the internals of the engine. 90 from major tire spin. Fuel to create a normal, combustible air/fuel ratio. I dunno, just trying to generate ideas. Maybe I will try to add some more.
Check Engine Warning. Loud backfire more than embarassing as it can lead to a split pipe/muffler if severe enough. Popping after moving to lower altitude. The bike will run OK, anywhere between 2. Tell me more | Cookie Preferences. What do spark plugs look like when running lean? This procedure will tell you more about the air-fuel mix at a large throttle opening where you may be spending more time when riding your bike. I installed a shiny new Denso sensor, and time will tell. Cracked or Unplugged Vacuum Lines. Thanks everyone - this is great information!!
Lastly, make sure that you use the right grade of fuel. Erratic/Poor Idle – RPMs seem to pulse and might cause the engine to stall. I didn't think that this really mattered. But these cars will not "pop" in the exhaust - they still have a nice exhaust rumble in spite of the rich mixture shooting out the tailpipe. You will occasionally see this type of rich mixture on heavily modified road race cars, and you'll see actual flames coming out the exhaust as the fuel reaches oxygen at the exhaust outlet. I made sure the cap on the vacuum part of the carb is still in place (i have an acerbis tank and this was the culprit last time this happened). Just popping more than usual. I've had the dizzy off one time and POPPPPPP! Sometimes they loosen up over time due to heat cycles and vibration. However with enough exhaust cycles, there is enough fuel to ignite in a 4 to1 collector with an ember from any of the cylinders.
Both EECs run the DFSO very well. The additional noise may also be illegal and could land you in hot water. Lastly, backfiring could be a sign of low compression. Location: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh. So I put on the R/T and we drove. Most often, the petcock-to-carburetor vacuum line is the reason for vacuum leaks. How do you fix an exhaust backfire? What air-fuel ratio is too rich? The car was hauling some butt though. Fuel wash: The excess fuel can wash the cylinder walls, wiping away essential engine oil. This is pretty rare, but does happen from time to time, especially if you had to rout the choke cable recently. It's not uncommon to bend the float out of spec accidentally while working on the carburetor. The unburned fuel accumulates and then when one of those late firing events happens it sets off the whole mess.
And if somebody can say for sure if the car must be in drive (at least automatic) when adjusting mixture screws? My spark plus look like I'm running pretty rich, but I've read that the after firing is actually a sign of a well tuned engine but others say it's too rich and still others say it's lean, any experience/advice is much appreciated. During a no-load condition (like when you are coasting in gear), the air-fuel mixture on a carb bike should be a bit lean to save fuel and reduce emissions. Take your time, work in a clean environment, and be careful not to strip any screws. Then you might be surprised that you can force it to happen at pretty much any time. Sorry for the stupid question but I can never remember.
More air less air tests are a quicker and more accurate way to determine if you are rich or lean in a specific carb circuit. You're probably running a bit lean on idle. I know a small amount of popping is normal, but my bike pops alot. I run VM38 Mikuni with long velocity stack length, a custom one into two exhaust muffler system with absolutely no leaks, a Pazon fully adjustable ignition system, a 10. More often than not, a motorcycle will start backfiring after fitting an after-market performance pipe or after removing the baffles from the stock pipe. One of the most overlooked causes of a rich air-to-fuel mixture is a poor carb rejet. When you put it in "drive, " you pull numerically less manifold vacuum, so the idle mixture leans out. On the other hand, if the spark plug is black or dark gray, it means the engine is running too rich. I am not even sure if it is OL or CL during this big bang.