This is the 10th year of a tradition created on a whim that inexplicably ignited: the Running of the Bull, apologies to Pamplona. Dewey Beach, which swells from just over 300 people in the off-season to 60, 000 some weekends in July, has been changing. They were all running, packed close together.... Then again... Last week, over beers in Dupont Circle, McDonnell leaned forward and said, "I think we should rent a tandem bike. Money raised from T-shirt sales is donated to the town. Tomorrow afternoon here in Dewey Beach, police will shut the main drag as hundreds of people surge through the two-block-wide Delmarva town and storm the beach. People plan summer vacations around this. Garrett Walsh, District software developer and longtime head of the bull, and Jamie Fargus, Bethesda research coordinator and tail, will shimmy in, suited up. "That's what makes Dewey Beach unique. That changed it: Now there's a new bull costume, all clean and smiling, instead of glowering.
Two years ago, Fargus entered the ring in a sumo costume after the matador was gored. Sometimes odd things happen at the beach. I'd be crazy not to. A bookie calculated odds and took bets on the bullfight, which often ended with someone falling to the ground and squirting little packets of ketchup. Other beach houses made signs to hang on decks and hosted sangria parties, cheering as the bull ran by. They'll gather with celebrants in white shirts and red bandanas at the Starboard bar. They both started laughing. McDonnell got engaged this winter. Last year, McDonnell wore a Batman costume: the batador. On Sunday, Walsh couldn't get through one bar without being stopped by an affectionate stranger slurring, "There'sh the bull! Anyway, he talked Howard into going to Pamplona's Festival of San Fermin instead, and there they were, watching the running of the bulls. Some guy will play Spanish songs on a little guitar as the crowd weaves out, shouting and whacking the bull with rolled-up newspapers. And then watching two angry bulls turn around and thunder back at them. Montgomery was a Dewey bartender when the bull running started, then he bought the Starboard and began promoting the event a few years ago.
And some guy's planning to propose to his girlfriend tomorrow at the bull ring. Their beach house group kept changing, too, as people got older, busier. "If Hemingway was right... and you should 'always do sober what you said you'd do drunk, ' " McDonnell wrote on their beach house Web site, "then doesn't it also follow that you should always do drunk what you swore you'd never do sober? The Madness SpreadsIt wasn't all that weird for Dewey. They videotaped the first Running of the Bull, camera lurching alongside 40 or so friends dressed in white with two guys in a ratty old rented bull costume, people on the beach confused, little kids chasing after them. And maybe not chasing so much as stumbling blindly inside the fleecy costume. "It would be great, " McDonnell said.
And: "We were screaming like little girls. Mothers will grab their children and weekend visitors will jump out of the way as throngs appear over the dunes, yelling "Toro, toro! " Friends launched a protest movement, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animal Costumes, waved signs and got handcuffed to a pole. "Suddenly a crowd came down the street. In the '90s, when McDonnell and Walsh started renting beach houses, the town was dominated by summer weekend people like themselves crashing on sofas to sleep it off. "We didn't so much run with the bulls as hide from the bulls, " said Howard, now a real estate agent in Rockville. When the DJ plays "Wooly Bully, " the crowd will go nuts. "It had run its course, " Walsh said. Well, two people in a bull suit, actually. "The bull riding in, all four legs pedaling. Now police shut down Route 1 to the disgust of people who have driven hours only to get stuck in a baking-hot traffic jam a few agonizing miles from Rehoboth Beach or Bethany Beach. "The Sun Also Rises". Walsh looked over the sweaty, staggering-drunk-by-midafternoon crowd like a proud father.
Roots in PamplonaLike all great ideas, said McDonnell's friend Michael Howard, this one started over a couple of beers. Or as Fargus said, "It's so much fun... Then charge along the surf with a bull chasing them. Then, after the run, they'll head back to the bar for a ridiculous semblance of a bullfight. Elvis will be there. Walsh blinked, swallowed some Guinness, thinking. Drinking on the beach was legal until the mid-'80s, one of the last holdouts. At a neighboring bar, the band stopped mid-jam to sing "Olé, olé olé olé! " McDonnell had read it a few too many times, he said.
The crowd shouted along. "It's stupidity for stupidity's sake. It seemed like the Spaniards knew what to do, and only the two Americans were scrambling for cover, hopping a fence as the bulls raced by. This year, there will be a dignitaries section with local politicians.
"To a certain extent, weekenders are living on borrowed time, " Brady said. John Hardy, who owns a hot-tub store and deejays in town, said he remembers all kinds of crazy antics back in the 1970s, like people setting up pulpits in the sand and acting as faith healers curing people of pregnancy. Walsh keeps saying it's his last time as the bull. Just as the Spaniards had anticipated. Those who kept coming noticed they were starting to like the slow off-season, too, and going out to dinner rather than just grabbing a slice between bars. The instigators were, of course, a Washington corporate lawyer, Michael McDonnell, and his beach house buddies who weekend in this laid-back, sunburned, bloody-marys-to-take-the-edge-off town. He nodded -- he was in. They laughed about what idiots they were -- until the bulls came back about a minute later. It was always rowdy. Someone bought scores of giant foam fingers that said, "Go bull! " Then one year while finishing law school, he ended up with plane tickets to Spain for a wedding -- long story. This year, for the first time, they didn't rent a group house.
Over the years, strange things began to happen: Women showed up in full flamenco gear. "The bull, " Walsh said, "has gone corporate. Bud Light is a sponsor. It has become a little quieter, a lot pricier, with more condominiums and more children. Planes fly over the beach trailing banners: Look out for the bull!
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