Ill make a new diagram and see if i can get it correctly. The best spot to connect a boost gauge is the intake manifold; most typically by 'T-ing' into one of the existing manifold hoses. ASP - First NGC SOHC in the 13s and the 12s. If you are doing an install of a Hurricane 190 kit DO NOT follow the diagram provided in their two page instructions when connecting the vacuum lines. Then there's something wrong with my car, because I am above 50psi at idle, and up around 80psi when running it up.
Note: In the aftermarket BOV diagrams that indicate to 'cap nipple' on the line coming off the turbo housing, this simply means either cap the nipple the Blue line was going to or eliminate the 'T' with a straight coupler (best option to avoid potential leaks). Anybody wanna correct me on that? Trace them around and find what goes where and you'll see how to remove them wrote:can the lines to that canister be removed with the emissions stuffs? As long as you get a good tight fit you can use anything you want. Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 3:48 pm. Don't worry about venting it. 2020 Sidewinder SRX.
That being said, I was wondering exactly which vacuum lines can stay where they are on the m50 manifold (i. e the fuel pressure regulator, etc... ), and which need to be located (and where) to avoid boosting something that shouldn't be? We didn't bother with these since we don't expect to run mega boost. The KLR also generates and electrical signal to drive factory boost gauge. When i build boost the gauge rises then stays at max boost (in this case 10psi) it doesn't move from there. 21 posts • Page 1 of 1. A little bit of consideration is essential before handing over your cash for a particular boost gauge.
If, for example, you expect to run no more than 1. Ok tested some things last night. I also found that the pcv valve was blocked as well. You will probably need a few extra bends so go to a pick apart and pull another ccv hose. Join Date: Aug 2009. I'm in the process of putting in my new MS3x, but all my vacuum lines are disconnected from my intake manifold. Volvo 850 T5 1994 Still deciding. First, manifold vacuum won't register on boost/vacuum gauges unless you make a connection downstream of the throttle body (ie inside the intake manifold). I would connect it like the 2nd pictures shows.. All righty. Note - a standard 52mm boost gauge will not fit inside the WRX's ashtray cavity. It's the bright blue hose.
Finally got some snow here so took my Viper out with newly installed hurricane 190 kit. Also you will want to run the boost gauge directly to a vac line off the back of the intake mani so you read both boost and vac. I'm not that great when it comes to drill and tap. Join Date: Sep 2010. 5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3. Get a ces elbow or similar. 1990 White SR powered 240sx - My sliding slut. Hopefully that set up will work, like I said, I haven't started the car yet. With the outside edges of the faceplate shaped to suit, we can now bore a hole to pass through the boost gauge. Most cars have several firewall openings that are capped with a rubber or plastic seal; we'll use one of these to pass through our boost hose. I tapped 3 holes into the m50 manifold and an additional hole into the intercooler piping. Location: Wisconsin.
When at idle I'm only getting a 0 reading. Subaru legacy Wagon 1993 (Swopped) Problems. Location: tallahassee, FL. If needed, how would/should you cap/seal off any ports where any lines are removed? Just wondering which vacuum line to tap for a boost gauge? The latter of the two is recomended for anyone not in cali. 1995 Volvo 850 high idle [vacuum leak at right side vacuum takeoff]. The hose we selected was one that connects to the purge control solenoid on the underside of the manifold. Electronic boost gauges have a few advantages - they generally have slightly better accuracy, most have a peak recall function and, because the gauge is fed an electric signal from a remote pressure sensor, there's no requirement to run an air hose into the cabin. How do you run your vacuum lines? A 158 x 95 x 53mm Jiffy box (part number HB-6011 UB1) was big enough for us to cut out a new faceplate from either its lid or base - it cost just $4.
Hooked everything back up. Boost gauge works properly with bike pump and suction. The second advantage of connecting the boost gauge to the intake manifold is you'll receive a more accurate representation of actual boost - the amount of positive pressure received by the engine. The car started and idled today (yea! 98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85.
I'm planning to use new silicone hoses for all lines regardless with clamps for all lines. Hurricane (doesn't even look like the correct carb to me). 7. the waste-gate works perfectly. I believe the solenoid has to do with boiling fuel or something on a hot restart. Cars' electrical systems will be able to cope with an extra bulb without being overloaded. 2nd port goes to RRFPR and Tee's off to the BOV. I would kinda like to see this as a "Sticky" so it could be a reference and a much easier way to show peeps how it could/should be...