If anyone wishes to use my tank design, I'm sure they have it on file.... My wallet is lighter, but at least now I won't have to worry about my gas tank for a long, long time. How to remove a below deck fuel tank. Use peel ply/plastic to make it smooth. This salt water and chemical resistant coating is included in the fabrication process at no extra charge. But the one sentence summary is that the project wound up costing more than the estimate by 13% which I was satisfied with but Johanson was not. I know it sounds like a high price all totaled up, but I think it is reasonable, compared to the fine for leaking petroleum products into the sea water.
Any other repair solutions other than cutting deck an replacing tank? My choices were to replace the tank, which can be done by removing the cabin sole, pull out the two water tanks so that you can now see the front of the fuel tank, then cut out the old and install the new tank. I do not believe the tank is not built into the keel as you can see the front/forward face of the tank. So after cutting two large holes (7" round) into the front and aft ends of the tank to allow me to get inside, I cleaned and prepped it to the instructions in the kit. So for the past three days I have been cleaning the bilge, sanding and prepping all the cracks and splits under the port stringer and today I puttied in all the areas where the stringer had broken loose from the hull to give a smooth transition from the stringer to the hull to make a nice radius for the glass. Cutting boat deck to replace fuel tank on 1985 nissan 300zx. If you would like further info.
Then leaving the tank 100% full but lowering the water level in the void with an inch, then using the multi-tool to cut the deck, trying not to get electric shock.... Boat need to be securely on cradle, even keel and no list to do this obviously. Replacing exhaust hoses. My thoughts are a Shelf under the existing floor maybe. I got that all glassed back in and have been a happy boat owner for about 9 years. My point is, whatever you do is going to be a "bodge", the prat of a manufacturer who sealed a consumable item under the deck has already defined that. I've cut out Nautica and AB tanks using similar methods and had no issue. Boat Fuel Tank Replacement Cost: What To Know. The solvent properties of ethanol break down the resin in the fiberglass. Each yard recommended plastic for the water tank replacements. John, Thanks for your reply and advice.
You need to add spacers on the long sides. Deck removal to get at fuel tank. Keep in mind, that products are available on the market for marine fuel tank repair. Price it out, factoring in the fabrication. Additionally, all of our tanks come with an identification sticker which includes serial number, date of manufacture, pressure testing results, volume measured in gallons, materials used and associated material grade, as well as our manufacturing information for your reference. I notice that you used aluminum for your fuel tank.
A previous owner had replaced it once and I replaced that tank about 5 years ago. I wound up with a fiberglass tank with an aluminum liner. Cutting boat deck to replace fuel tank tops. I contacted a local boatyard and the gentleman told me that he had actually performed this task on an E40. Just from what I can see the sole does not sit on the stringer or baulkheads other than where they added putty when putting the cap in. Take into account the age of the vessel and its market value to make the decision.
Fortunately they only needed to remove the setee and the galley sink island on the starbord side. I have never cut into the keel but as a structures guy, it is a function of how well the repair is made and how it is put back together. Also depending on the year and model you make have an inspection port to look in and give yourself an idea of the space between the tank and deck. Cutting boat deck to replace fuel tank on can am f3t. So I called the original Mfg from their label on the tank, they are still in business and after looking up the drawings for the tank( it is not in production any more) they gave me a price of $771. With the tank in place, it's time for attaching all the plumbing and vent lines. Depends what it's made of, how big the leak is etc etc and how consiencuius the owner is ultimately. My fuel tank and aft water tank were set in about 1/2" of polyester resin then foamed in place.
The new gas or diesel tank is ready to be installed and the plumbing reconnected. The repair plan will follow. The bilge tank was placed on top of the foam near the top of the fuel tank so water was always in the foam and eventually got the best of the tanks. Beware of fiberglass fuel tanks.
Estimate vs. Invoice. Fuel tank maintenance is usually caused by one of these four things: - Too much heat created by not enough airflow in the engineroom. And if you water tanks are plastic like mine are, you would want to get a new tank made for that location rather than converting the existing tank. I fiberglassed the tank up to the top, but not on the top. I used Marine-tex (wonderful stuff) to fill all the craters on the bottom and the lower sides, fairing it up reasonably smooth. Being "frugal" and not wanting to spend over a grand on a new tank nor wait the month for it to be fabricated, I decided to try and seal the old tank. Pump the siphon until the gas or diesel flows from the boat tank to the portable tank and becomes empty.
We have found a way around this with a solution that should make any future problems much easier to deal with. Although they don't install the tanks they build, companies like Atlantic Coastal Welding do have dozens of different tank templates to fit most applications, including rectangular, belly and saddle designs. Not to mention the associated engine trouble if salt-water enters the engine). I then applied three layers of woven roving and glass mat, using polyurethane fiberglass, being told that epoxy would be no better for this application. Over time, a hole is opened, allowing gasoline or diesel to spill into the bilge. Then the same contractor that installed our Yanmar, also installed the tank, and did the appropriate plumbing connections.
Plastic decking has also been used. Keep in mind; the tanks are secured to the vessel in addition to being plumbed with a vent line, intake hose for filling, and a hose to feed the engine. I did take lots of pictures at the time of the repair and can find them and scan them in and forward them to you via e-mail if you wish. But for the final detailed estimates I would have been hesitant to trust a yard that didn't spend some time aboard Counterpoint figuring out the project. Fortunately, each yard willing to put together a detailed estimate was on the same page and made appointments to get aboard. I had my wife use a 4ft 2" x 6" board to leverage the tank away from the keel as I pulled out each plate. I swear Max, Counterpoint's project supervisor at Johanson, was more upset when he found out about the leak than I was. Some other notes about what went better than estimated and what was more difficult: - The fuel fill and water fill lines and deck fittings needed to be replaced. I also reinstalled the engine room bulkhead simply by using a 1-1/2 inch strip to cover the cut, similar to the panel in the aft cabin that allows for access to the back of the engine. After the tank is in place, plumbed, and deemed ready for use, a leak test should be performed. If the tank was foamed in place (a fairly common boatbuilding procedure) and the tank leaked, the foam is likely saturated with fuel. I don't intend to burn bridges with; perhaps even the yards that I suspect ghosted me just lost track or something.
I spent $110 on materials and did the work myself. In all cases, however, the basics boiled down to four parts: - Disassembling and/or opening up the boat as necessary to remove the old tank. Lastly a month or two into the sailing season I noticed there was a small hole in the top of the water tank. I got brave then and put 40 dollars worth in Idea. Replacing it is no doubt a better option but you're still going to have to get an expensive tank made and fake up the deck when you're finished. Dobo, By any chance, have you contacted Novurania and asked them for advice and for a solution? To remove the tanks, I found it easier to simply cut off the top of the tanks, cut out the baffles, make a cut down the corners (these cuts made with a jigsaw with a metal blade as well as a sawzall with a 12" rescue blade (they tell me it is supposed to cut anything) and simply collapsing the sides of the tank in and away from the foam which surrounds the tanks. I used a SS rod hooked at one end and with a circular loop at the other end to pull out the lead plates, one at a time. Now back to the bad tank, after looking it over after the sand blasting it had the salt water cancer bad! I hired a glass guy to make all the cuts. Yard J quoted me both fiberglass and stainless steel diesel tanks.
If you're considering or undertaking a tank replacement project I'd be more than happy to chat with you about it further in the comments below or privately if you prefer. All three references were very positive. From: Anita or Stephen Leed. Be prepared to shell out money at a moment's notice for unexpected repairs. They alsohave the original tank drawings from Florida Marine Tanks and the modified drawings of Joe's. Their estimate was competitive. I have been able to remove the sole over the water tanks and this weekend will start removing everything I need to remove to get to the old bladder tank. Glue to it with thickened epoxie (super bond) grind the seam and a 3 inch wide layer of 1708 over it. Repairing or reassembling the deck and structure.
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