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Megha Re Megha (From "Lamhe").
This could cause the motor to not want to start when the throttle indicator is in the START position. The couplers are fully mated. Do not try to spray a carburetor cleaner in the breather or run it thru the fuel, expecting it to do a cleaning job. However, make it wide enough to be able to use a decent. This is usually the top seal that is bad. Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start car. When I plugged it back in, pumped the ball and tried to restart it, it won't start. There needs to be a thrust washer (brass for early motors or nylon for later) between the rear of the prop and under the prop nut.
715" overall length. Probably have started on the first go around. The reason being when pumping the bulb to prime, you are filling the carburetor, when the carburetor float shuts off the in coming fuel, the bulb gets hard because there is no place for the fuel to now go. Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start 4. He had been trying to sell it for over a year, and finally got a willing buyer, who was going to be there to look at it the next morning. Or the carburetor float needle is not seating, but if this is the case then fuel should be leaking out of the carburetor vent hole.
Sometimes it is best to rebuild the carburetor even if it is just the fuel pump. HOWEVER, as these motors age, so does the spare parts become depleted, so check. And if the motor was used in salt water, then the bearings could be damaged. Another 2 or 3 tries before it sputtered. Problems with Johnson 15hp. Nothing wrong with the motor, it just needs to have the shifter lever moved to neutral. The picture below shows that this mono got so hot that part of it molded itself into the seal recess, actually looking like it could have been the seal at one time. Also check in the water jackets along the cylinder walls to block. It also will make a slight difference in the procedure whether the motor is a long shaft or not.
You can clean them, the best is with a sandblaster. Ensure there is gasoline in the fuel tank. If they have not been recently replaced, are they black and oily or just a gray color? However this created another problem of the flywheel now being lowered just enough to rub the timing plate, creating excessive resistance when twisting the twist grip throttle. While you are holding this ball in, pump the primer bulb. Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start cold. Out of the motor is just unburned oil from the gas mixture. Then remove the nail, the line should be pretty full. If it runs, then dies, try pumping the bulb while it is running and see if it improves if it does then replace the fuel pump. My Response;;; I guess the 1 st thing I would do is check the water intake screen in the housing behind the prop to see if it allows water flow in.
You can make a plastic shim the size of the gear, again out of a plastic milk jug or margarine tub that has a center hole that the bevel gear shaft will go thru. Suction) to pull fuel in from the carburetor into the crankcase and. After the piston closes the intake port, further downward movement causes the fuel/air mixture in the crankcase to be pressurized so it can move quickly into the cylinder when the exhaust ports are opened. They are made in a 1/2 moon shape, so when sheared off you do not have anything to grasp ahold of to remove one. An example of what can & does happen if the laws of mechanics are not played by||This crankshaft was also ruined but apparently by a weak oil mix|. The red check valve assembly is towards the tank. Is it just out of oil, or is there any evidence of water in the gearcase? This motor appeared to be running. 6) leaky cylinder head gasket allowing. I knew there was a problem, but I did not want to take the time setting in the water at the launch to trouble shoot it, and trolling with my 70 hp jet would be about impossible.
Other than totally removing it, and cleaning, then reassemble, about the only quick, but possible temporary cure would be to spray this spline area with starting fluid (alcohol). Fuel supply restricted. 3 rd Pull the head & check for any obstructions in the water jacket & under the headgasket. However reed valves are seldom a problem on these motors. If I try a day later, it will start right up and do the same thing. The rubber grommet on the outlet of the water pump, may not be inserted properly mating the pump housing to the copper tube that supplies the water from the pump up and into the bottom inlet into the powerhead. You will notice that I DID NOT SAY SCRAP PILE, as over time, you will find one of those old broken motors could supply valuable parts for for a future needed repair. Upon investigating, I found that these aftermarket points were not really compatible with the one of the electric start charge coils. You put it on a boat, it bogs down and possibly dies, look at is it. Or as seen below, part of a vane broken. Gearcase unit can be moved downward. 15) Hard Starting When Cold: This may sound stupid, but have you actually pumped the fuel line primer bulb until it becomes hard, thereby pumping fuel into the carburetor? The 6hp tank was a 4 1/2 gallon metal tank that I had resurrected by removing lots of internal rust and installed a new metal pickup tube and an identical male QD plug as the main tank had. The OMC 1993 and newer 2 cycle, plus all the 4 cycle motors use a different wider key, part # 307480.
I finally got some [email protected] [[s and pulled the starter and carb. Work for the mechanic. I tried for a few days and it just wouldn't start. Again check ALL wiring connections.
Time for a soaking in carburetor cleaner. One thing that you may run into on the older motor. Drill in just until you hit the bolt, go slightly into the threads. Occasionally one may also break. The clip (B) will disable the cut-off switch while retaining the "PUSH" Stop Button feature. It's highly recommended to use a factory service manual when troubleshooting a no start issue. His solution was to take a electricians #4 or #6 copper grounding split bolt clamp, simply clamp it around the throttle cable in an out of the way place.
Note rust, especially for the bottom cylinder. Check the flywheel nut for tightness, the key not being seated properly to where the flywheel may not be tightened down totally. The size O-Ring that I have found that works is 1/4" ID with a 7/16" OD. If the gasket is blown between both cylinders it will not start, however that would be the rare situation as the leak usually is between the cylinder and the water jacket, which will allow water into that cylinder. Excessive fuel or oil, engine flooded.
Check for air in fuel supply manifold. If this happens, you may have an engine that may start with persuasion, but may not remain running OR dies as you open the throttle up. I have a feeling this is why OMC has not posted a recommended PSI reading, as mechanics would be chasing their tails over a few pounds. I used to use pre-mix in the cylinders on problem motors or just trying to bring a oldie to life, Now I only use this product it is a bit pricy but I have found nothing that works as well. HOWEVER many of these motors have what is called a neutral safety cut out. The wires need to be isolated from the frame by the fiber washers in. Pound on the lower end, trying to at least move it a tad bit.