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I was very suprized at the ease of the steering, even with the bigger tires.. almost like power steering, but now that I have a rear locker its a little harder, but not as hard as it was stock.. Suspect corrosion which will need to be dealt with. I used a 3 jaw standard puller and it worked, but barely. We did have an air chisel and weren't going to use a torch because this would melt the seals, so we grabbed the grinder. The pitman arm puller was left on with a lot of tension on it to ensure as it started cracking it would come off. With a new Z-bar to help steering after a lift. Do I have to remove the entire steering gear? Hey I bet if you went for a drive it would fall off, Murphy's Law you know.
Do I need a pitman arm puller? Borrowed a pitman puller but it is actually too big and won't grab it enough(opening too large for my arm) and it just wants to spread open and pull over it. Any ideas before I get out the air cut-off tool and cut a notch almost to the splines and finish with a chisel? Posts: 19, 229. in a cattle trailer down by th... Joined: 06 May 2008. My 32mm socket is just barely too small for he nut, so i plan to hunt down a 33 or 34mm. Like said even with a bullet proof puller heat is required most. I don't think I have a tool that can be used to press the two apart, so I'd have to go buy or rent something.
You only need to heat the arm in one spot. So, I grabbed a large flathead and tried to wedge it between the center link and pitman arm like one side of a pickle fork just to get a bit more room for the tie rod end jaws to grab. As stated earlier these parts will just pop apart with moderate to high levels of torque. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer] Nottingham England. Step one, remove the nut (done). The center link post is tapered whereas the pitman sector shaft is splined, so I would go after the taper first. The puller slipped off the first 2 times I tried. So here's the box with the stuck pitman arm. I'm used to dealing with stuck fasteners, but this one is in a spot where if really really don't want to mess up the other pieces involved, for cost and safety. Don't pop off, I had to use one for my brothers truck, He has a cool 68 International crew cab truck (rare). Work in a pinch (30mm, 32mm, 34mm, 36mm, etc.
I ran out of space for it and got tired of paying for those tanks every year from the gas supplier. Hehe i used an impact on a puller once - actually i used it on three which is exactly how many puller screws i stripped. Location: Fayetteville WV. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. 0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic. I bent one wrench and i don't want to round the nut trying with the other. Location: Southfield, MI. Drag link usually comes off without too much effort too. In this ho to, we pull a rusted-on pitman arm off our old jeep to correct the steering for a 4-inch lift kit we are installing. Any peaceful suggestions before i go gorilla on it with the breaker bar? I would get a proper pitman arm puller. As mentioned, it will come with a loud pop so use the restroom before attempting. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped.
There was some localized heating to the arm using the angle grinder. Step two, get a throw-away old nylon ratchet strap about 1" wide and wrap it around the threads several times to protect them. Location: lino lakes mn. I used a Breeze Industries setup, excellent quality and fit I'm really happy w/ it. And no time to r&r the box at this time. "There are very few personal problems that cannot be solved through a suitable application of high explosives. " I removed the 1 5/16" bolt, the skid plate, the stabilizer bar, disconnected both tie rods and the idler arm and bracket but the pitman arm will not come off!
If not you might be pressing a solid mass of metal and will get nowhere. 1942 Clarktor WW2 tug. We were converting to power steering, as manual with.
If the puller breaks, you may have to call your local shop. I used the tie rod puller as pictured above to seperate that area. 1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor. And a cross link or tie rod (wheel to wheel). Repeated cycles of heat / tighten / strike may be required. Use the proper tool, If you don't want to spring for a good one check with your local autoparts store. 1948 F6 350 chevy/rest stock, no dump bed. '74 W200 Crew Cab 360, NV4500, D44, D60 and NP205 divorced transfer case. Most of your big chain parts stores like Auto Zone or O'reilly's have free loaner tools of these tools that you only use once. But this heat was minimal compared to the flame of a 4000+ degree. I purchased the Z bar eliminator from petroworks...
According to the ford. ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum. See our shop for branded gear! Im gonna try one last time to but any tips would greatly be appreciated. Can I get the arm back onto the new steering gear and center link by torquing the nut to the target torque, or do I need a press? A GOOD puller and a BFH, as already noted, should do it though. New seal for the cylinder shaft. Dan just repeated what I said earlier - Incredible Hulk stuff. Agua Dulce, lifornia. Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:01 am. Taking the steering gear with the arm still on it to a shop to have it pressed off is really not that big a deal for me as I live in Northern Virginia and there are shops all over the place. It works real well when crossing the soft dunes to get to the beach.