"Some people think they can make it if they drive fast. That afternoon, it was listed as 3:50. Sitting on an island bench gazing at the imposing castle, Ian Morton, from Ripon in Yorkshire, said he had taken care to arrive well ahead of the last safe time to cross. By profession, Mr. Morton is an internal auditor and, he joked, therefore risk averse.
"When the tide comes in, it comes in very quickly, " she said. Cheaper solutions have been discussed, including barriers across the causeway. "Nah, " the officer was reported to have said. Some manage to escape their cars and scramble up steps to a safety hut perched above sea level, while others seek shelter from the chilly rising waters of the North Sea by clambering onto the roofs of their vehicles. In addition to the off-duty police officer rescued several years ago, others who have been saved from the causeway tide, Mr. Clayton said, have included a Buddhist monk, a top executive from a Korean car company, a family with a newborn baby and the driver of a (fortunately empty) horse trailer. Tide high and low. According to Robert Coombes, the chairman of the Holy Island parish council, the lowest tier of Britain's local government, there was talk about constructing a bridge or even a tunnel, though the cost, he said, "would be astronomical. Until the causeway was built in 1954, no road connected Holy Island to the mainland. But those living on the island worry that barriers could stop emergency vehicles when they might still be able to make a safe crossing. Yet the island relies on tourism, Mr. Coombes acknowledged. Irish monks settled here in A. D. 635, and the eighth-century Lindisfarne Gospels — the most important surviving illuminated manuscript from Anglo-Saxon England, which is now in the British Library — were produced here. But in order to visit, tourists need to time the tides and safely navigate the causeway.
Without it, a community of around 150 people could not sustain two hotels, two pubs, a post office and a small school. For visitors, Holy Island can make a perfect day trip, allowing a visit to the priory ruins, and to the castle, constructed in the 16th century and converted into a home with the help of the architect Edwin Lutyens at the start of the 20th century. Many live inland and are unfamiliar with tidal waters. "It's so predictable: If you have got a high tide mid- to late afternoon — particularly if it's a big tide — you can almost set your watch by the time when your bleeper is going to go off, asking you to go and fish someone out, " Mr. Clayton said, standing outside the lifeboat station at the fishing village of Seahouses on the mainland and referring to the paging device that alerts him to emergencies. "I'm pretty confident that at 3:51, you could get across, but I honestly don't know at what time you couldn't. "There are plenty of signs, " said George Douglas, a retired fisherman who was born on the island 79 years ago. Sometimes those who get trapped have to be helped out through open car windows. During the coronavirus lockdown, the island returned entirely to the locals. Is it high or low tide. Walkers, too, can get stuck as they head to the island on the "pilgrim's way, " a path trod for centuries that stretches across the sand and mud, marked by wooden posts. On the island's beach with her family, Louise Greenwood, from Manchester, said she knew the risks of the journey because her grandmother was raised on Lindisfarne. Most feel a little foolish having driven past a variety of signs, including one with a warning — "This could be you" — beneath a picture of a half-submerged SUV. The ruins of a priory, with its dramatic rainbow arch, still stand, as does a Tudor castle whose imposing silhouette dominates the landscape. "The water looks shallow, " he said, "but as you cross to about a quarter of a mile, it gets deeper and deeper.
When the sea recedes, birds forage the soaking wetlands, and hundreds of seals can be seen congregating on a sandbank. "Half the people in the country don't seem to be working. "You are prisoner for part of the day, " he conceded. "I don't want to make light of the pandemic, " he said, "but it was lovely. What is a low high tide. In May, a religious group of more than a dozen was rescued when some found themselves wading up to their chests. But even he could not resist pondering the dilemma that most likely lies behind many of the recent costly miscalculations. At low tide, the causeway stretches ahead like a normal roadway set well back from the waves, but, twice a day, the tarmac disappears rapidly under a solid sheet of water. The authorities in charge of determining safe travel times naturally err on the side of caution, and on a recent morning, vans could be spotted smoothly crossing the causeway a full 90 minutes before the tide was supposed to have receded to a safe distance. So island life remains ruled by the tides, which dictate when people can leave, said Mr. Coombes, who arrived here planning to become a Franciscan monk but changed course when he met his wife.
"That's just to frighten the tourists. Recently, a vehicle started floating, so Coast Guard rescuers had to hold it down to stop it from falling from the causeway and capsizing. He thinks that the increase reflects more vacationers staying in Britain to avoid disrupted foreign travel. Few events in life are as certain as the tide that twice daily cascades across the causeway that connects Holy Island with the English coastline, temporarily severing its link to the mainland.
Growing numbers of visitors have been stranded in waterlogged vehicles on the mile-long roadway that leads to Holy Island, also known as Lindisfarne. Islanders have little compassion for those who get caught by the tides and see their vehicles severely damaged. While no one has drowned in recent memory, the increasing number of emergencies is alarming to those who respond to the rescue calls. The one thing they all had in common was their desire to visit a scenic island regarded as the cradle of Christianity in northern England. While there are few statistics on the numbers of incidents (or the rescue costs), Mr. Clayton said that "this year we have seen more" — with three cases in a recent seven-day period. Yet for some, it still manages to come as a surprise. HOLY ISLAND, England — The off-duty police officer was confident he could make it back to the mainland without incident, despite islanders warning him not to risk the incoming tide. "The risk seems really low because you can see where you are going, " said Ryan Douglas, the senior coastal operations officer in Northumberland for Britain's Coast Guard, which is in charge of maritime search and rescue and often calls on the Royal National Lifeboat Institution crew with its inflatable boat to assist. In his lifetime, Holy Island has changed "a hell of a lot — and not for the better, " said Mr. Douglas, who marvels at the number of visitors, exceeding 650, 000 a year.
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