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Even if the car moves under its own power, you really shouldn't proceed if it has a vacuum leak. That would make for an engine that was horribly inefficient and made terrible power. When there is boost, the valve cover port that feeds into the turbo inlet pulls the air from the crankcase to maintain a vacuum on the crankcase pressure. Turbo doesn't have vacuum port meaning. When your turbo/supercharger beings to produce positive manifold pressure (boost) the vacuum advance immediately goes away, exactly as it would in a naturally aspirated car that just had its throttle opened. Instead, you're left with a rough idle and probably find yourself correcting it by adding way more fuel than normal to try and stabilize things. Checking the Intake Manifold for Vacuum Leaks. Current Volvos: 1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile).
I know that it's important to get a vacuum source as close to the turbo as possible. Mechanical advance relies on one input, and one input alone: RPM. Wastegate with 2 vacuum lines. It's great having so many n00bs on here who act like they know something. Many recomend referencing turbo boost level to intake manifold. We've all been there under the hood chasing vacuum leaks while demonstrating how well-versed we are in reciting all of George Carlin's "7 Dirty Words" set—we can recite it verbatim at this point.
The one on the fan shroud is hard to see and doesn't seem to cover enough. Never a stutter or hard start (until I reconnected my pre-heat hose-sadly, valve in air mix box can't be replaced, as recorded also by Jim Peisker in his postings on his '97 wagon). Turbo doesn't have vacuum port no 1. Part of that's due to the eventual breakdown of gaskets and hoses. Here is the backside of the vacuum advance mechanism. Not a problem, just something to be aware of.
Their prices are among the lowest out there ($1. There are basically 8 vacuum lines in the engine bay to deal with: 1 - vacuum tree to the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). But I did later buy more of the small (4 mm) line from siiconeintakes. A vacuum leak means that air can enter the system by abnormal means or not through the induction system. Has thanked: 16 times. Some of the tests involve spraying flammable fluids or gases onto the parts of a running engine. We'll bet money the RPM increased. Not on a flat stretch of highway. Find the turbocharger. Turbo doesn't have vacuum port for sale. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a kickback.
On a possibly related topic: Although I am sure my P0133 code (slow O2 sensor Bank 1 sensor 1) is due to my deteriorating headliner (what else is left to check?, and I've checked plenty), your posting lets me know my vacuum tree is correctly done, and that's a relief. RIP '83 240 Wagon, rusted out. Your car might do away with options like a power brake system. To determine where the issue is located with this type of system, usually, a visual inspection is all that's necessary. In that situation, what many might deem a radical amount of timing is actually quite beneficial to engine performance. 6.5TD, no vacuum line to turbo, wastegate wide open, correct. We're here to be expert guides in everything How To related. Reason: additional info.