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The lines, fittings, and the fit and finish are incredibly well thought out, and I couldn't find a single part of the kit that could be improved upon. They had zero issues so I dont understand why we would on a car thats half the weight and tiny tires? Also, I measured the Chase Bays wheelwell line to make sure my new bulkhead wouldn't force the line to sit unnaturally. I think I'll stick with the stock setup, I would not suggest doing it. We are the only company doing on track testing of this setup. The system for this build starts with Chase Bays' brake booster eliminator, which features a black anodized plate that uses the same factory holes the original booster once did to pass through the firewall and bolt into position. Chase Bays advertises that it mounts to the master cylinder well, but in the 2002 chassis it places it in a very awkward spot to actually fit hard lines. A common misconception is to believe this causes a higher risk of failure due to a lack of a back up line should one line fail. The more engineered kits are offset mount plates so you attach to the brake lever for a better leverage ratio (move hole up). Make sure you send me some pics! Vehicles with up to 4 outputs on the master cylinder have a pressure output that is controlled internally.
The exit line leads to a two-way line diverter to send fittings to both rear brakes. It's obvious Chase Bays did its homework when it designed this. Check out the FAQ by clicking the. Before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. The rest of the lines are -3AN stainless steel-braided and Teflon PTFE-lined with a black PVC coating, and the quality is apparent from the moment you pick them up. It's not a difficult process by any means, but again, I highly recommend using proper safety any time you're using an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel. For many, this is preferred in that it offers a much more consistent braking experience and more control without locking up the brakes as compared to a stock-style booster system. PLEASE CALL OUR OFFICE FOR DETAILS AND EXCEPTIONS-- You may return most new, unopened items within 30 days of delivery for a full refund. It was really hard to brake effectively in autocross. The best way to describe how your brakes will feel with our Brake Booster Eliminator (BBE) | Brake Booster Delete Kit is: 10-80% braking is about the same as good brakes on a booster setup. I am looking for a pedal that feels similar or a little softer but brakes more. As shown above, the input rod into the master cylinder interferes with the pedal arm. The upper corners of the core support didn't put up much of a fight, as the metal is relatively thin and I cut away the area inside the bay first then hopped to the front of the car to finish trimming from the outside.
That was even worse (for obvious reasons). Or a functional equivalent - disconnected booster with 7/8 master. I don't like manual brakes on track either myself. Chase Bays - Single Piston Brake Booster Delete - BMW E36 | E46. To modify my pedal feel, but that is probably wishful thinking. With the boosterless setup and brake lines now in and the neatly tucked radiator joining the Innovative mounts, the Civic VX engine bay is finally coming together. The Wilwood Master is more than capable, but it is not recommended to run a full (4-wheel brake) system on a single outlet as if you lose a brake line you lose all brakes. Downsides using Chasebays Brake Tuck kit & Brake Booster Eliminator? I was finally able to mock up the new setup for the first time. So I'll be figuring out a way to mount it to the fender sheet metal. Increasing the diameter of the master cylinder bore will reduce line pressure, which also reduces clamping force.
This is a Single Piston Brake Booster Delete, we also make an upgraded Dual Piston Brake Booster Delete with 6:1 Pedal here! MC and Booster weigh anywhere from 10-20 lbs. When it comes to plumbing the radiator, Chase Bays definitely has options available. You may have to register. Hawk blues all around. Braking is more raw without the brake booster. I'm particularly interested in how the pedal feels, not just the effort. Right now, I'm just focusing on what I know I can get done. I opted to add Chase Bays' fenderwell brake lines that lead to the calipers, which are composed of the same exact materials used on the relocation kit lines, meaning excellent quality and the fit is spot on. To make good pressure to the calipers, 900 - 1100 psi, will take about 200 pounds of leg force due to the short pedal ratio. Also, some of the main factors to obtaining proper brake performance with a deleted booster are using the correct master cylinder for your brake pedal ratio and the ability to adjust the rear brake bias along with performance pads to keep up with the quick clamping force you'll experience. I've felt them in a couple cars and they work pretty awesome.
BMW E46 (325, 328, 330, M3. In regard to the entire kit, it's incredibly easy to install and didn't cause any concerns throughout the process. I think the Chase Bays kit would fit and I'm curious what you guys think. Having officially kicked off the business back in 2005, owner Chase McMaster was well known for slick wiring harnesses that made engine swaps both easier and cleaner, and he eventually moved into other aspects of vehicle building, like cooling and fuel upgrades. • Includes properly designed black anodized aluminum firewall plate, stainless steel mounting hardware, black Wilwood 7/8ths Master Cylinder, -3AN 90º output fitting, and rod end pedal adapter with attachment nut. A number of complete (or at least close to complete) kits are available through various groups, and relying on a brand that had done the process time and time again and tested things thoroughly was important for me.
The line leading to the rear section is interrupted somewhere around the shift lever area in order to feed the adjustable bias valve. With the radiator positioned, I drilled a hole on each side large enough to fit a set of Downstar Inc. @downstar Allen head bolts through and finished them off with their red beauty washers. I still long for a slightly lighter pedal, and if I ever came across a 5/8 tandem MC I would throw it in in a heartbeat. Potentially I would add ABS too. I deleted my bmw 2002 booster and love it. Just a bunch of overpriced "make your engine bay look cool while you hard park at the local car meets" crap. You can get a good feel but it takes a lot of experimenting with pads, rotors and valving. Originally, I had planned to convert the VX clutch master cylinder to an S2000 version for a cleaner look, but Chase Bays actually offers a feed adapter line that connects right to the side of the Wilwood reservoir on the delete plate, which I think looks even better. I've found some pads feel better than others on track. For years, as custom bays have become cleaner and less "busy, " various groups have produced tucked radiators to help free up some space under the hood by tacking it under the upper radiator support. Pre-tightening the harder-to-reach fittings and then moving them into place made things much easier. Would it be something were the master cyclinders are contained with the pedals, like a Tilton setup? It's a good idea to mark the length needed to fit the top of the radiator beforehand in order to avoid cutting more than you need to.
There are companies out there making poorly designed adapter plates with no master cylinder or clevis included and no actual development into the product. Email: Please note that we are limiting phone support to DEALER INQUIRIES ONLY. What brake pads are you using? This give just enough brakes but still makes it easy enough. What brake caliper setup are you on? Bigger master cylinder = Harder pedal feel/more difficult to push and shorter travel.
Not a fan of manual brakes for a street car. The increased number of outputs does not translate to more braking power. Kumho xs that were officially ruined by some moron who decided to threshold brake at thefront of a train of cars at the end of a long straight cuz he saw a red flag. The heavy 81-100% braking requires slightly more leg effort but it's where this product really thrives. For all other inquiries we ask that you use the appropriate email contact above. If you delete ABS its an additional 30+lbs. Even a small change such as.
That will give you an idea of what it feels like. OVER 12, 000 SOLD SINCE 2009! BMW E30, 2002, E21, E28, E34, Porsche, VW. Brakes are bled constantly. I removed the ABS fuses because it was causing a weird issue years ago.
Last edited by autox320; 11-27-2018 at 03:13 PM. Functionally the car should experience the same braking times and distances. Note: C-clip was set into place for mock-up, as I had new OEM clips on order; I suggest you grab new ones, as well, if you're adding new lines. Bigger MC = Harder pedal feel. You get a pedal thats easy to modulate levels of braking that you want. It includes an adjustable bias valve, the actual lines with fittings already in place, and the additional fittings needed to plumb the system through the sheetmetal. There's 2 key pieces of equipment that want to be in the same place at the same time: the snout of my supercharger and the MC. Total install time will depend on the tools you're using and how comfy you are with cutting through metal.
Somebody told me it would feel like you're pushing in against nothing and then there would be resistance at the added pedal effort, I would be interested in seeing if there's additional firewall flex. I don't plan on converting to a dual master cylinder because that would be enormous overkill on my car, but am curious about how it would be set up in a S13. Smaller master cylinder = More soft pedal feel/easier to push and longer travel. The line, already fitted with quality clamps and cut to the exact length needed when it arrives, goes directly into place and looks great. Always use good quality brake lines that are clear of moving parts. Absolutely, we have many cars running this setup stopping under even more extreme conditions.