I have heard some issues with the lube sensor bouncing on wakes going off. Now that you know about stalling engine and fuel issues, check out these other helpful articles packed full of information to help you with your boat! Engine starts runs fine then dies out. I have an '06 292 with 6. I've checked every other wire I could find, but can't find a fuse that's popped. 5 or 15 amp breakers instead of just tripping them? Cleaning or replacing the airflow sensor may clear up your stalling problems. My boat was doing the same thing.
It recently died on me out on the water. Thanks in advance for your help! Crud in the tank is pulled up against the end of the pick up tube when the fuel pump is pumping and causes a blockage. Thanks for the advice, I will see what I can do to check it out. 2006 Yamaha 200 140 hours on it and here is what I've done so far. The second most common location for blockages is going to be on the bottom of the fuel tank pick up. I'm running stock everything and getting the RPM from the negative coil. If the jumper worked before but not know I would question if the connectors on the harness are bad or loose. I'm going to do that this week and get back to you. Can also try this on temp and OP sensors one at a time until you isolate which one is causing it then you determine how to resolve. This is a 1996 SuperSport with the gt-40 engine. Boat engine starts then dies after few seconds when starlink. 3) Disconnected fuel line to electric water pump.
I just pulled the wires from the OP switch and they were a little corroded... My son removed mine one time and I spent half the day debugging that problem. Can anyone direct me on what the issue may be? All circuit breakers are OK and didn't see any obvious wiring problems. It may not charge when you get the engine running.
Hi all hope everyone had a great 4th. So I just replaced the fuel water separator as part of my routine for summer, and after a bit it now seems to start and stay running longer. I am looking for suggestions on what I can look for. Boat engine starts then dies after few seconds of water. Have your engine thoroughly inspected paying close attention to: Pistons, cylinders & valves. I want to try a back flush through the passage, but i can not find the opening to the passage from inside fuel bowl. Suspect the float/needle and have disassembled the carb. Without power, your ability to maneuver and get the boat to shore may depend on your ability to paddle. And they are a little easier to work with.
I don't think you can even get TCW-II oil any more. Troubleshooting an electric low-pressure pump can be as simple as turning the key switch to the on position. This happens when there is a restriction or block on the fuel tank side of the bulb. Symptom was pretty close to what you described, it would start and run as long I held the key to start but would die as soon as I released the starter. Outboard runs then stalls. The positive & negative are directly onto the battery. When the engine (and fuel pump) stop running the crud drops off and there is no longer a blockage. It turned out to be a fuseable link. Your outboard may be stalling & running out of fuel due to three issues.
The boat is still on stands from the winter. Why does my outboard stall? Any help or ideas would be great. It will run for a few mins then die out. Ignition (unlikely, since nothing warms up much in 2-3 minutes). 0L Merc, 220HP, Alpha 1 Gen 2. Or, if your boat doesn't have a selector switch, it should lead to a fuel water separator. Choke closed (unlikely). Engine Starts and Dies within seconds. This, in turn, doesn't allow the system to prime up. My experience is the A-4 will run at idle for somewhere between 1 ~ 2 minutes on a full carb bowl with the fuel supply shut off so @3 minutes I think you're getting some fuel pumped but not enough to keep up.
Defective Airflow Sensor. After racking my brain, and fighting daylight, I had to call it quits last I have a high degree of confidence now that I just need to remove the last piece of the metal switch/sensor and attach the new one and will be good to go. When the key is in you can hear the fuel pump working fine. As I said this hasn't happened every time but last night had my wife and kids with me and we were heading back as it was getting dark and she did it. Idles and accelerates but rough with an occasional stumble, but the high and low speed needle valves have not been adjusted yet. Boat engine starts then dies after few seconds turns. I admit I did not fill tank up with fuel before storage so I am wondering if it is a water issue or could there be something else?
Looking at the picture number three, it looks like there is debris in the nozzle 0303618. Dirty or Worn Carburetor or Linkage. Of course the first thing that caught my eye was the low oil pressure red indicator light in the oil psi gauge followed by the lack of power steering. Engine runs fine and dies after 10-15 minutes||jimlyon||Troubleshooting||12||07-12-2010 11:49 PM|. Disconnect the fuel line where it enters the carb. No issues starting or continuing to run. Topics: 296July 23, 2018 at 4:09 pm #79967.
That pressure gauge is from eBay - about $12, works great! If I described the problem to people this was their first answer. Mechanical fuel pumps are usually operated by either a diaphragm or crankcase pressure or an arm and a lobe on the camshaft. For these pumps, you can simply pull the fuel hose off of the output side. Runs for a few minutes, then dies... First of all a big thank you to the folks to helped me get it running in the first place. Or sometimes it would run and I'd be fine. And start the engine to see if the pump is moving fuel. Here is a picture of the fusable link that went bad in my boat. It runs for about 3 - 5 minutes then dies. After investigating more closely there is a definate difference in sound between each fuel pump, when cycling the key and making the pumps go thru the initial priming cycle. Starts first pull, which was a surprise. Garry beat me to it and said what I would have said, only he said it better. This one shows the engine starting to labor and die. Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|.
Last edited by Marian Claire; 11-03-2014 at 08:06 AM. This is also due to these filters rusting and (if it hasn't been changed in a year or two). Prior to reading this post again, I went ahead and cut he harness off the purple/yellow, purple wires and used butt connectors and heat shrunk them together with the new OP switch wires. At this point in troubleshooting though. When you restart the engine: Does it start normally without any delay? Looking at the causes of the audible, its temp/gear fluid, or OP.
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