R. I. P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck. If the pedal is still good and firm with only the front brakes connected, then you know that the MC and front brakes are not the problem. The brake pedal should return to its normal position (step 2).
I am offering a choice of techniques in this area. I let the pedal return and I may get pedal or I have to give a couple/few tries. I was barking up the wrong tree! If the accumulator can hold a charge, the hydroboost unit will provide several applications — hydroboost I units will provide two or three and hydroboost II units will provides one or two. Basic function can be checked by pumping the brake pedal until hard with the engine off and then starting the engine while maintaining slight pedal pressure. Could that cause the rears to lock? Turn off the engine and let the vehicle sit for one hour. The issue is, sometimes I have goes to the floor! I'm not a professional mechanic and have no understanding of the inner workings through experience.
Once the brake is applied, the input rod moves forward (left) to the power piston assembly. I'm figuring on inspecting the rear brakes once I get the Master cyl. I chose the $40 option.. someone mentioned the pressure reservoir- the older Chevy trucks didn't have one of those, and since my Regal uses the same booster, it doesn't have it, either.. but it does somehow store enough energy for one pump of the pedal after engine shutdown. It's a fairly simple swap. The hydro-boost uses the hydraulic pressure to the brakes, which activates the brakes. 1989 Chevrolet Suburban, 8. There is air in the brake lines if no air percolates after placing a new master cylinder. I've been doing the two man bleeding and it seems to work, but I've spent at least 10-12 hours trying to do it. If applications are power assisted, go to next step. When they're bad, they cause the sinking pedal you've got. Flush the entire power steering system using the vehicle manufacturer's recommended fluid. Anyway I haven't owned it for very long but shortly after I started driving it every once in awhile the brake pedal would go to the floor. It always poured PS fluid but still worked. Is it possible when the tech turned the wheels with the engine off it may have damaged something or created an air pocket?
Properly operating hydro-boost units will produce certain noises. Rear disc brake calipers with built in emergency brake function can also be VERY tricky to thoroughly bleed (what with all of the extra small parts inside that can trap air), and also to adjust in general. I just did a complete brake job a year ago with new ACDelco calipers, rotors, ebrake kits, pads, fluid, new master cylinder, flex lines (the works other than hard lines). With the engine off, apply the brake pedal repeatedly with medium pressure until the booster reserve is depleted. Put it in gear, let it roll, hit the pedal right away, and more times than not the pedal goes to the floor with no brake at all. This lack of movement causes the input rod to force the travel limiter valve assembly into the power piston which results in pin "B" moving forward. This is all assuming your pedal to floor is not due to a fluid leak, such as the hoses to calipers only leaking under full wheel turn which would be evident by signs of brake fluid all over the control arm and the master cyl reservoir being lower on fluid the more it happens.
A typical hydro-boost is shown in Figure 1. In apply mode, the pressure from the brake pedal causes the push rod to move the treadle valve forward and close the vacuum port to the vacuum diaphragm chambers and isolate the vent valve. After all that pedal pumping we cracked a line off the master cyl and got what I wouldn't call a squirt. Jack up the vehicle, remove the jack stands, and then lower the vehicle to the ground.
Your Hydroboost gets power off of the power steering pump. Took it to brakes plus, they said they bled the brakes again and everything was good. The hydroboost system uses a high-pressure accumulator to store power steering fluid under pressure in the event of a failure. Remove return line from hydro-boost and plug end with appropriate size plug or bolt. Bad master cylinder. I did this several times. If you get small bubbles appearing in the fluid, you have to shut the vehicle off and walk away until the bubbles are all gone. The pedal feel will harden noticeably.
The hydro-boost requires a constant source of pressurized power steering fluid for proper operation. If you can still feel a sponginess to the piston apply by hand, then there is still air trapped in the MC. If pump speed is OK, perform pump flow and relief pressure test. I can't wait to get it up here (along with my dog and all my stuff) and start working on Power Steering fluid level. 09-09-2017 10:44 PM. I think you guys are right, and that's where my thoughts have gone since I last posted. Start the engine and run at idle speed. I bench bled the mc a second time to be sure the air wasn't there. First time pedal down I got nothing at each corner, then a dribble, and 10x made no difference. Start the engine and allow it to idle while observing the vacuum gauge.
I have replaced the master cylinder and the hydro-boost within then last two months on a separate issue. I took all that crap off and replaced the booster with a normal vacuum booster. If no leaks are found in the hydro-boost or hoses, do not repair or replace them. PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport. Mu 99 did exactly like yours, found brake lines rusted, would hold pressure so no visible leaks, but would suck air in. At least two brake applications should have a power-assisted feel before the pedal hardens noticeably. 2014 Harley Davidson Heritage Softtail. Unbolt the master cylinder from the hydro-boost unit.
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